Goa was the perfect ending to our year travelling the world in 2015 so we thought what better pick-me-up after leaving the kids at Our Home than a few weeks of luxury back there. Unfortunately, it was a far cry from the seaside paradise we remembered from last time we visited.
Carrying on from where we left off last time we returned to Cavelossim to stay at Veeniola Guest House. Upon our arrival it all seemed a bit quiet as this place was full of travellers last time we visited but there was a spark missing this time around as we soon found out it was low season.
We never thought being in Goa during low season would be particularly bad as we quite enjoyed the thought of quiet evenings sipping pinocoladas on the beach front. What we didn’t expect that there would be nowhere left to get a pinocalada from! All the shops that were thriving from our last visit had been closed for weeks and the many beach shacks had been reduced down to one.
Instead of relying on the local beach we hired a scooter and in the evenings rode into the local town for dinner and drinks with Mike’s Place being a particular favourite. We spent the days relaxing on the beach and going for long walks, but to be honest we were pretty bored and hoped we could find better elsewhere!
Moving to Agonda we decided to treat ourselves to some nice accommodation as despite the friendly staff at Veeniola it didn’t exactly trigger that holiday feeling you hope for.
We stayed in a beach shack at Jojolapap’s and it was a stark improvement. You get what you pay for and Veeniola was considerably cheaper but Jojolapa’s beach front setting enabled us to relax as we wanted to when first heading to Goa. Oh, they also have the cutest puppy pug you’ll ever meet, just don’t grow too attached as you can’t keep him.
The beach was lovely and significantly better than Cavelossim which had deteriorated in the two years from our previous visit with a lot more litter scattered in the sand. The sea at Agonda was very wavy just as we like it, the beach was clean and we enjoyed walks up to the rocky area to watch the sunset over the cove.
If you’re in Agonda beach you have to visit Fatima’s for some of the best food you’ll encounter in India! Everything on the menu was exquisite and it costs between £3-£5 a meal! Although it was still very quiet and a lot of the little shops were closed, it still had a good atmosphere which is what we needed!
We hired a scooter at 300 rupees for the day and decided to visit Cola Beach. We had read reviews saying it was a hidden gem of a beach and when asking for directions we were told the journey is “a little rough” but how rough could it be?
After 20 minutes of smooth riding we came to a cross roads that directed us to a side road to Cola Beach. The problem was that this was no road it was just sand and boulders which has been slightly flattened. We muddled our way down the route and H got flung off the back of the bike one too many times but when reaching our destination we soon found it was all worth it.
Climbing down the steps of a steep cliff we found the most incredible secluded beach with a fresh water lake to one side and 5 metre waves of sea on the other! This was something we’ve never experienced before and if you are ever in a position to visit Cola Beach this is one place you don’t want to miss! Make sure you pack yourself enough water to last however as you won’t find any beach shacks here!
All good things come to an end and as we left Jojolapa we had hope that the north of Goa would be livelier than the south and having never visited the north before we were excited for what it had to offer. As we reached our next destination in Mandrem we were delighted to see that Fab Hotel actually reflected the pictures when booking the accommodation! The hotel had nice large, airy rooms, an on site bar and restaurant and swimming pool enclosed by arched palm trees! This bar was also where we were introduced to Bira beer which had now become K’s favourite Indian beer!
Sadly the hotel was as good as it got in Mandrem and for the rest of north goa. We explored several of the local beaches and we were disappointed to see that they were full of rubbish, dog poo and just not a nice place to be. You could tell we were out of season as the whole area felt like no one cared anymore which is not how any environment should be treated. Overall we are certain that if we return to Goa we will be sticking to the south and avoiding the landfill like north.
We left Mandrem with the knowledge that the only good thing about the area was Fab Hotel and were by now just looking forward to our next trip to Sri Lanka. We thought four nights in Panjim would be too much before our flight so we booked at apartment for two nights in Arpora.
We booked to stay at Zeebo Suites and as soon as we pulled up to the hotel we felt like we had been let down again. However, you should never judge a book by its cover and this was exactly the case here! We were led to our top floor apartment overlooking the huge swimming pool and were absolutely delighted. We had a full private kitchen complete with gas stove and washing machine, a living room with premium HD which was replicated in the bedroom. We had sofas, two balconies, a huge fridge and it even had great wifi! This apartment was less than £20 a night for two people and we were debating moving in permanently!
We actually chose to visit Arpora for the night market but as with most of Goa it was closed but that didn’t bother us as it meant we could make the most of our new pad! (You can see how disappointed with Goa we must have been to be excited to stay in the apartment!)
The best part was yet to come however as almost all the restaurants were closed we were wondering what we were going to eat. Then miraculously a leaflet was slipped under our door advertising The Pink Chilli. We don’t believe in religion but this was a sign from God to say “treat yourself, you deserve it!”
Pink Chilli was a 20 minute walk from the apartment but it was so worth it. Arriving at the restaurant you’re greeted with a pink tuc tuc and enter into a world of quirky Indian imagination. Bollywood posters from all eras are plastered on the walls, you’ll find the Indian version of the Mona Lisa and Michael Jackson in a turban! The food was fabulous as well, not the cheapest place to eat but it was worth every penny and you have to try the pulled chicken tikka burger!
After much deliberation we decided staying in our apartment was not better than flying to Sri Lanka so we moved to Panjim for two nights before our flight.
We stayed at Hospedaria homestay which is extremely highly rated on TripAdvisor. The accommodation was lovely and the room was one of the biggest we’ve seen at a homestay but we couldn’t justify exactly why it was so highly rated as we thought it was just a nice place to stay.
We visited Panjim Church which was a nice building but we wouldn’t say you’d be missing out if you didn’t visit during your stay in Panjim. What we do recommend you do is find yourself a good local restaurant as try the fish thali! A mixture of battered, fried, grilled fish complete with clams and rice for under £2 means you can’t go wrong! We’d suggest you look for the busier ones to avoid a case of the Delhi belly but it’s definitely something you should try if you’re in Panjim.
If you’re after something more western then Route 66 is the place for you. This American diner is tucked away upstairs on the main street, near Panjim post office.
We can honestly say we have never had a better burger in India from a standalone restaurant! They also offer up some mean cocktails and do that wondrous Bira beer. Lionel is the manager there and he offers great hospitality, our #1 place to eat in Panjim.
Overall our experience of Goa was saved by Jojolapa, the Zeebo Suites apartments and some of the best food we’ve had in India at the Pink Chilli and Route 66. Not really what you expect from a blog on Goa where you imagine a beach paradise but that just wasn’t the case for us. Sri Lanka however, was a different story…